Pattern Cutting for Men's Costume by Friendship Elizabeth;

Author:Friendship, Elizabeth;
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
Published: 2014-08-15T00:00:00+00:00

SPANISH CODPIECE

Sheet of paper:

20cm (8”) x required length of codpiece

Piece of paper for the gusset: 5cm (2”) x 10cm (4”)

If the codpiece is made without a gusset, it should be attached so that the top, G–H on Diagram 1, is approximately 5cm (2”) below the normal waist line. The bottom should be sewn 1 or 2cm (⅜”–¾”) below the fly opening. If the codpiece is made with a gusset (Diagram 4), W meets H/G on the trunk-hose.

Diagram 1

Mark the corners of the paper A, B, C, D as diagram.

1A–E = 7.5cm (3”).

2Square down E–F to bottom of paper.

3From A measure down A–G = 3cm (1¼”).

4Square out G–H = 6.25cm (2½”).

5E–I = 7cm (2¾”).

6Join H–I.

7From I square out I–J.

8From I curve top of codpiece almost to J as diagram.

9From F measure out K 1.25cm (½”) towards C and L 1.75cm (¾”) towards D.

10Join G–K with a straight line and redraw curving .75cm (¼”) either side of the mid-point as diagram.

11Join end of curve near J to L and redraw in a smooth curve as diagram.

12I–M = 2.5cm (1”).

13F–N = 1cm (⅜”).

14Join M–N with as curved line as diagram.

15Fold the pattern along E–F and trace through the line from M to N. Mark the new line O–P as diagram.

16Cut off surplus paper as Diagram 2.

The gusset

Diagram 3

17Mark the paper Q, R, S, T as diagram.

18V is midway between Q–R.

19W is midway between S–T.

20Join Q–W and R–W.

21Cut of surplus paper to complete the pattern.

Constructing the codpiece

22Mark around the pattern on double fabric; cut out and trace the lines through in the usual way.

23Tack along the lines drawn in red on Diagram 2, to mark them on the right side, on both pieces.

24Join the pieces together by sewing round the curve I–L.

25Join the pieces together along H–I.

26Turn the pouch right side out.

27Sew halfway down I–F through both layers.

28Pad out the top of the pouch firmly carefully keeping the shape.

29Sew the remaining part of I–F.

30Match the tacked lines M–N and O–P and stitch the pouch to the backing.

31Attach the gusset joining Q–R to the bottom of the codpiece.

32Cut a lining as Diagram 4 with I–F on the fold, and sew in place.

33Make eyelets to lace the codpiece to the trunk-hose as indicated.

Diagram 5

The completed codpiece.

Note. If the codpiece is to have elaborate decoration, it is easier to make a cotton foundation and a separate cover.

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